Hoi An – Part II

I committed to a 28 day Yoga course to learn more about the history and spirituality associated with Yoga, as well as refine my physical practice. I am definitely gaining a better understanding of all aspects of traditional yoga.

Our teacher, Rahul, has introduced so many new pieces of information about Yoga, Hinduism, and Buddhism. For example, all of the poses in yoga were created to make it so people could sit comfortably in meditation for hours. There are four meditation postures, and all of the stuff we do in Yoga is to make it so we can sit in one of those four poses for long periods of time.

However, the thing my body is screaming for the most is a padded chair to sit in when relaxing. I had romantic notions of restricting modern-day comforts, but it doesn’t take long for me to try to get out of eating vegan pho (noodle soup) for breakfast every day and searching for a coffee shop with stuffed chairs.

Our days are spent moving on a yoga mat in the studio or sitting on a different yoga mat in our house for meditation, chanting, or discussing philosophy. Outside of these times, seating options are: stiff hardwood dining chairs, a small wooden bench at a desk, a sofa without back cushions, or on the bed against a stiff headboard.

I am not sure if I will actually teach yoga after this course. I have been doing yoga off an on for a long time, but I’m not confident about knowing how each pose should look, adjusting people, and modifying practice for injuries.

Our chanting class has been replaced by anatomy class, but it’s not quite what you’d think. We are learning some things about body movement, but also much about the five Koshas, or layers of the “body” such as physical, mental, life force, intellect, and bliss.

43 Times Around the Sun

This birthday was special because five people who I met three weeks ago came together to honor my 43rd trip around the sun. My teacher, Rahul, took us to Indian food at my request and got me a delicious vegan chocolate cake in coordination with Maya. Our cook, Thao, got me glittery flowers and a necklace. Meditation instructor Sita got me flowers and told me I looked beautiful. Not pictured: Hatha instructor Lan who brought me cheesecake while I was in savasana.

Thanksgiving

I was originally told we would have Thanksgiving as a day off. However, when I asked Rahul, he said, “What’s it about?”

I told him the classic story of the starving pilgrims and generous native people. Then I explained it was about being thankful and being with loved ones like friends and family. Also, there’s football and shopping maybe.

“Uh, I don’t think we will have a day off for that.” He said. I agreed since I don’t know why we would have it off anyway just for me. So, no Thanksgiving here at Aum Yoga Studio, but I thought it was funny I had to explain what it was and he would determine if it was worth a day off or not…and decided…not.

Excursions

My Son Temple

We took a trip about an hour away to see the My Son Temple complex. It was founded by the Cham people from Southern India in the 4th century. The Champa lived here until China invaded about 1,000 years later.

Having Rahul give us a tour was special. He talked about the Hindu carvings, with beautiful pieces of Vishnu and Ganesh on display, as well as religious rituals in the temples.

Signs of Invaders

It is typical in Asia to see religious sculptures and statues without heads or with their faces smashed in. Often invaders will destroy spiritual imagery as a way to assert power and change the culture . I asked Rahul who he thought smashed the faces on these temples and he couldn’t say. He said, “Maybe the United States, eh?”

“Not our style.” I responded. We meandered around some more structures and went to the back of the complex where I saw what was more our style.

Many of the structures had been bombed during the Vietnam War and were just a small wall of bricks or an enormous pile of dust. The bright orange bricks are signs of rebuilding. India and Vietnam are working together to restore the buildings.

The motorbike ride there was challenging because it was raining hard and we were on a busy road with semi-trucks that splashed dirty water on us when passing. I saw brown water cover my helmet eye visor, knowing that it was also hitting my exposed mouth and nose.

The motorbike ride home was much more relaxing, we found a small road that cars where cars were forbidden, and we just cruised down a winding mountain road, looking at fields with water buffalo and white egret birds. Right before we got back to Hoi An, we crossed a metal pedestrian bridge with thousands of slick wet metal panels creating grooves that moved the motorbike wheel, and had a bit of an arc so we were going downhill to the end of the bridge that had an abrupt T intersection. That was a skill builder for my driving.

I am driving Maya around, and it adds complexity to how the bike handles, plus I’m responsible for her safety. It is a little stressful, but it honestly feels so good to have someone put their trust in me and be able to share experiences and adventures with her.

Da Nang

This coastal city is way bigger than Hoi An where we are staying, and it was fun to cruise around. My rented motorbike had a bad battery, so I got a push from Rahul while he was on his bike and extended his leg to my passenger peg to get to the nearest mechanic.

Da Nang ia where the U.S. first landed at the beginning of the war. We went to Son Tra Mountain, where I wanted to check out an old U.S. Air Force Base, but we ran out of time and good weather. I’ve read it is mostly reclaimed by the jungle, but I would love to see it.

Near Da Nang, we visited two different Buddhist sites: Marble Mountain and Lady Buddha.

View of Da Nang from Lady Buddha

Marble Mountain

The following weekend, we motorbiked to Da Nang to take in some more spiritual sites. The first stop was Marble Mountain, a noticeable limestone and marble rock formation that rises out of the flat sea-level city.

The mountains seem to be completely hollow, and filled with Buddha statues, Lady Buddha carvings, and other spiritual scenes.

When we saw Rahul praying, we learned Hindus believe the Buddha is a reincarnation of Vishnu, so they pray to him also.

Son Tra Mountain

We cruised all the wall along the beach to Son Tra Mountain (aka Monkey Mountain) to see the Lady Buddha statue and huge Buddhist Temple complex.

The 220 foot tall figure is the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam. The Lady Buddha has several stories, but the idea is she is representative of an enlightened woman.

Home Stretch

We have about one week left of classes. Tomorrow, I will teach a 75 minute Hatha Yoga Class and be evaluated. Then in a couple of days, there is an exam on all the information we have been given. Key points are 8 limbs of yoga, plus 5 limbs each of 2 of these limbs, 5 koshas, 3 doshas, 3 types of suffering, 7 chakras, 5 pranic body areas, at least 5 types of yoga and what they specialize in, 11 senses, 10 Sanskrit pose names, and 5 Sanskrit mantras.

Leave a comment